This guide leans on the people who actually live here — where they send their own visitors, and the handful of places worth planning a whole afternoon around.
Getting your bearings
The best introduction is usually on foot — a slow first day spent finding the market, the main square, and the street that everyone eventually ends up on after dark.
Where to base yourself
Small, family-run guesthouses tend to beat the larger hotels here, both for the welcome and for how much closer they put you to the parts of town worth being close to.
